Dry Fit the Starting Step

Begin by dry fitting the starting step riser (leave the tread off). Rip it to the height of the first riser on the stringers. Always rip the bottom edge of the riser. A table saw will provide the smoothest and easiest cut. Slide the starting step riser along the saw blade and carefully roll the riser up to complete the trimming on the bullnose end (see figure below). Any irregularities in the cut will be hidden later by the finish flooring or by shoe molding.

Determine the dimension of the first rise and rip the starting riser 1 /16" less. Place the riser end against the wall skirt board and measure the gap between the curved end and the mitered skirt board. Subtract 1 /2" from this dimension and trim that much off the straight end. Slide the riser back in place, but put a 3 /4" piece of scrap between the curved end and the skirt board. Scribe a line on the straight end, using a 3 /4" block (see figure below). Trim to this scribe line and check for a snug fit.

The tread is cut to length in a similar manner. Place the tread on the riser and butt the straight end against the wall skirt board. Measure the gap between the notch and the mitered skirt board on the curved end. Subtract 1 /2" from this dimension and trim that much off the straight end. Slide the tread back in place, but put a 3 /4" piece of scrap between the notch and the mitered skirt board. Scribe a line on the straight end, using a 3 /4" block. Trim and check for a snug fit.

Remove the entire assembly and attach the 1" x 4" cleat to the floor (see figure below). Attach smaller cleats (approximately 11 /4" x 11 /4" stock) to the inside top edge of the riser. Space these small cleats so they will fall between the stringers. For final installation after installing the newels (see Step B.3), turn the starting step (tread and riser) upside down and assemble it with carpenter’s glue or construction adhesive on all surfaces and screws through the cleats. Be careful not to scratch the tread.